Help & FAQs

For plumbing emergencies, our response times typically range from 30 minutes to 2 hours, depending on your location, time of day, emergency severity, and current call volume. Response is fastest within our core service areas of Marietta, Kennesaw, and surrounding communities. When you call our emergency line at (770) 627-4421, we'll assess the urgency, provide an honest estimate of arrival time, and give instructions on immediate steps you can take.

Simple repairs (faucet repair, toilet repair, unclogging drains, garbage disposal replacement) take 1–2 hours. Moderate jobs (toilet replacement, sink installation, water heater replacement) take 2–4 hours. Complex projects (sewer line repair, whole-house repiping, tankless water heater installation) may take 4+ hours or multiple days. Our technicians provide time estimates before beginning work and keep you updated on progress.

A&G Plumbing & Drain has been serving the Metro Atlanta area since 2006. For over 20 years, we've built our reputation on honest, reliable service and quality workmanship. As a family-owned and operated business, we take pride in our long-standing commitment to the communities we serve. Our years of experience have allowed us to develop expertise in handling all types of plumbing issues, both common and complex.

A&G Plumbing & Drain proudly serves the entire Metro Atlanta area including: Marietta, Kennesaw, Acworth, Smyrna, Vinings, Atlanta, Sandy Springs, Roswell, Alpharetta, Buckhead, Brookhaven, Dunwoody, and surrounding areas. We're strategically located to provide prompt service throughout the region. For a complete list of our service areas, please visit our Areas We Serve page or contact us to confirm we service your specific location.

In a plumbing emergency: (1) Shut off the main water supply immediately. (2) Turn off the water heater to prevent damage. For gas heaters, shut off the gas supply as well. (3) Open nearby faucets to relieve pressure and drain remaining water from the pipes. (4) Contain and assess the damage — use towels, buckets, or a wet/dry vacuum to contain water. Move belongings and take photos for insurance. (5) Call A&G Plumbing and Drain at (770) 627-4421 for prompt emergency service.

Annual plumbing maintenance is essential for preventing costly repairs, improving water efficiency, and extending the life of your pipes, fixtures, and appliances. Start by checking all visible pipes for corrosion, moisture, or leaks. Test all faucets and toilets for proper operation and inspect for slow drains. Flush your water heater to remove sediment buildup. Make sure shut-off valves operate smoothly, and inspect hoses on appliances for cracks or wear. Schedule a professional inspection with A&G Plumbing and Drain for a full system check, water pressure testing, drain flow evaluation, and hidden issue detection.

While chemical drain cleaners may offer a quick fix, they are generally not safe for your plumbing system. Most contain harsh acids or caustic substances that can corrode your pipes over time. They also pose health risks and are harmful to septic systems. Better alternatives include plungers, drain snakes, or a natural mixture of baking soda and vinegar followed by hot water. For stubborn clogs, professional drain cleaning is the safest choice.

Prevent drain clogs by: (1) Never pouring grease or oil down the drain — it solidifies and traps debris. (2) Use drain strainers in sinks, tubs, and showers. (3) Run hot water for 15–30 seconds after using the kitchen sink. (4) Only flush toilet paper. (5) Clean drains monthly with hot water, baking soda, and vinegar. For stubborn or recurring clogs, A&G Plumbing and Drain offers professional drain cleaning services.

Gurgling or popping sounds are typically signs of air trapped in the plumbing system, usually caused by a partial clog or a venting issue. Common causes include buildup of grease, hair, or debris in the pipes, or a blocked plumbing vent on the roof. Improper pipe installation or older, undersized plumbing systems may also contribute. Have a professional plumber inspect the issue to prevent further damage or backups.

Common causes include main sewer line blockage (from tree roots, grease, or foreign objects), collapsed or broken sewer pipes, city sewer main issues, heavy rainfall overwhelming the system, and septic system failure. If you experience a sewage backup: stop using all water, turn off water to your home if possible, avoid contact with the sewage, and call us at (770) 627-4421 for emergency service. We recommend a camera inspection to identify the root cause and can install backflow prevention devices.

Yes, tree roots are one of the most common and destructive causes of sewer line damage. Roots naturally grow toward sources of water and nutrients, entering through tiny cracks or loose joints. Once inside, they expand and create a web-like structure that catches debris, causing increasingly severe blockages. Signs of root intrusion include recurring drain backups, multiple slow-draining fixtures, gurgling toilets, and sinkholes or unusually lush patches of grass. A sewer camera inspection can confirm the issue, and solutions range from hydro-jetting to pipe replacement.

For kitchen drains: use drain strainers, never pour grease down the drain, avoid putting coffee grounds and starchy foods down the disposal, and run cold water during disposal use. For bathroom drains: install hair catchers, regularly clean drain stoppers, and never flush wipes or hygiene products. Generally: pour boiling water down drains monthly, use baking soda and vinegar for natural cleaning, and schedule annual professional drain cleaning.

Hydro-jetting uses highly pressurized water (typically 3,500–4,000 PSI) to thoroughly clean pipe interiors. Unlike drain snakes that merely punch through blockages, it completely removes grease, mineral scale, tree roots, sludge, and biofilm. You might need it if you have recurring clogs, multiple slow-draining fixtures, persistent foul odors, or significant buildup revealed by camera inspection. Our technicians always perform a video inspection first to ensure your pipes can withstand the procedure.

Slow draining sinks are typically caused by hair buildup (combining with soap scum), soap scum accumulation, grease and food particles in kitchen sinks, foreign objects, mineral buildup from hard water, tree root intrusion (for drainage affecting multiple fixtures), or improper drain slope. Regular maintenance can prevent most clogs. For persistent slow drains, our professional drain cleaning services can restore proper flow using methods ranging from cable machines to high-pressure hydro-jetting.

Follow these steps in order: (1) Pour boiling water down the drain in 2–3 stages. (2) Try baking soda and vinegar — pour ½ cup baking soda, follow with ½ cup vinegar, cover for 30 minutes, flush with hot water. (3) Use a plunger with a tight seal. (4) Try a drain snake/auger to break up or pull out the clog. (5) Remove and clean the P-trap under the sink. Avoid chemical drain cleaners which can damage pipes, and never use excessive force. If these methods don't work, call our professionals.

Kitchen: cooking grease/oils/fats, coffee grounds, eggshells, starchy foods (pasta, rice, potatoes), fibrous vegetables (celery, corn husks), bones, and non-food items. Bathroom: hair (use drain covers), "flushable" wipes, dental floss, cotton swabs/balls, feminine hygiene products, medications, and kitty litter. All drains: paint, solvents, automotive fluids, and chemical drain cleaners. When in doubt, throw it in the trash instead of washing it down the drain.

Common causes include a dry P-trap (the curved pipe that holds water to block sewer gases — common in rarely used fixtures), biofilm buildup (bacteria creating odor-producing slime), food decomposition in garbage disposals, sewer line issues allowing gases to back up, venting problems, and mold or mildew growth. For infrequently used fixtures, simply running water for 30 seconds refills the P-trap. For persistent smells, professional drain cleaning or sewer line inspection may be needed.

A running toilet is usually caused by a worn-out flapper, a misaligned float, or a faulty fill valve. First, inspect the flapper at the bottom of the tank — try jiggling the handle to reseat it. Next, check the float and adjust it downward if it's too high. If water continues to run, turn off the shut-off valve behind the toilet until a plumber can inspect and repair the issue.

Signs it's time for replacement: frequent repairs, constant clogging (especially pre-1990s models), cracks in the porcelain, excessive water usage (older toilets use 3.5–7 gallons vs. modern 1.28 gallons per flush), wobbling or instability (may indicate floor damage), visible mineral buildup affecting flush performance, and aesthetic concerns. Modern toilets offer significant advantages in water efficiency, flushing power, comfort features, and soft-close lids.

The issue likely lies within the shower valve or mixing components rather than your water heater. Common culprits include a faulty thermostatic mixing valve (TMV) or pressure-balancing cartridge that has worn out or become clogged with mineral deposits. Another possible issue is a misadjusted anti-scald device. In rare cases, incorrect plumbing connections or cross-flow between hot and cold lines can affect shower temperature, especially in older or remodeled homes. Contact A&G Plumbing for expert troubleshooting.

For basic kitchen or bathroom faucet replacements, the job typically involves shutting off the water supply, disconnecting the old faucet, cleaning the mounting surface, installing the new fixture, and checking for leaks. This can usually be completed in under an hour. Complications may arise if shut-off valves are corroded, plumbing is outdated, or there's water damage or mineral buildup. In these cases, it's best to call a professional.

Common issues include: No power/won't turn on — check the tripped circuit breaker, the red reset button on the bottom, faulty wall switch, or motor failure. Runs but doesn't grind — jammed impeller plate, foreign object lodged inside, or worn cutting components. Leaking — loose connections at sink flange, discharge pipe, or dishwasher connection, cracked body, or improperly installed components. Our plumbers can diagnose and repair most issues, or recommend replacement if the unit is 8–15+ years old.

A constantly dripping faucet is typically caused by worn-out O-rings or gaskets, corroded valve seats, damaged cartridges or washers, improper installation, or high water pressure. Even a slow drip can waste thousands of gallons annually and significantly increase your water bill. Replacing components or scheduling professional faucet repair usually resolves the issue. However, if your faucet is older than 10 years or shows corrosion, complete replacement might be the better long-term solution.

Common causes include: clogged filter basket, blocked or kinked drain hose, clogged air gap, garbage disposal knockout plug not removed (if recently installed), drain pump failure, or clogged sink drain. Start by cleaning the filter at the bottom, check that the drain hose isn't kinked, and run your garbage disposal to clear potential blockages. For persistent issues, a professional plumber can diagnose more complex problems with the drain pump or internal components.

Before cold weather: insulate exposed pipes in unheated areas, seal gaps around pipes where cold air enters, disconnect garden hoses and drain outdoor faucets, and locate your main shut-off valve. During freezing temperatures: keep your home heated to at least 55°F, allow vulnerable faucets to drip slightly, open cabinet doors beneath sinks on exterior walls, and keep garage doors closed if water lines run through the garage. For extended winter absences, consider shutting off the water main and draining the system.

Start by checking your water meter: turn off all water-using fixtures, note the reading, wait 1–2 hours, and check again. If the reading changed, you likely have a leak. Look for musty odors, mold growth, damp spots on floors or walls, bubbling paint, or warped wood. Unexpected spikes in your water bill are another red flag. For hidden leaks, A&G Plumbing and Drain uses thermal imaging and acoustic equipment to pinpoint problems without unnecessary demolition.

Low water pressure can be caused by mineral buildup inside faucet aerators and showerheads, partially closed shut-off valves or pressure-reducing valves adjusted too low, hidden leaks in your plumbing system, corrosion inside galvanized steel pipes, clogged water lines, municipal supply issues, or pressure regulator failure. If it affects only one fixture, clean the aerator. If it affects your entire home, professional diagnosis is recommended.

Warning signs include unexplained increases in water bills, the sound of running water when no fixtures are in use, damp or wet spots on walls, ceilings, or floors, mold or mildew growth in typically dry areas, warm spots on floors (indicating hot water line leak), water meter movement when all water is off, reduced water pressure, and foundation cracks or unexplained pooling water. A&G Plumbing uses acoustic listening devices, moisture meters, and video inspection cameras for professional detection.

Professional plumbers use several specialized techniques: acoustic leak detection (listening for escaping water), thermal imaging cameras (detecting temperature differences), moisture meters (confirming water in building materials), video pipe inspection (small cameras inside pipes), pressure testing (identifying leaks via pressure drops), and tracer gas detection (tracking harmless gas through pipes). These non-invasive methods allow us to pinpoint leak locations accurately before making any cuts, minimizing property damage and repair costs.

Immediate steps: (1) Shut off your main water valve. (2) Turn off electricity near water to prevent shock hazards. (3) Drain the system by opening cold faucets and flushing toilets. (4) Document damage with photos for insurance. (5) Begin water removal with towels, mops, and buckets. (6) Call A&G Plumbing at (770) 627-4421. Avoid makeshift repairs like tape or epoxy, as these can cause more damage. Our plumbers will repair the burst and help identify the cause to prevent recurrence.

Different sounds indicate different issues: banging/hammering (water hammer from sudden valve closure), whistling (water moving through a restricted area), rattling (pipes not properly secured), ticking/tapping (thermal expansion of hot water pipes), humming (water pressure too high), and gurgling (drain venting issues). Solutions include installing water hammer arrestors, adding pipe straps, or adjusting pressure regulators. While some noises are merely annoying, others can signal problems leading to leaks if not addressed.

Repiping involves: initial assessment and planning, material selection (copper, PEX, or CPVC), home preparation and protection, creating strategic wall/ceiling openings, removing old pipes and installing new ones, leak testing and pressure verification, patching openings, and final code inspection. A complete repipe typically takes 2–5 days. It's recommended for homes with lead or galvanized steel pipes, frequent leaks, rusty water, or severely corroded pipes causing persistent issues.

Common causes include corroded galvanized steel pipes, water heater corrosion (if rusty water appears only with hot water), municipal water system work stirring up sediment, high iron content in well water, and corroded water mains. To determine the source, check if discoloration affects hot water, cold water, or both. Rusty water isn't typically a health hazard but can stain fixtures and laundry, taste metallic, and indicate bigger plumbing problems.

Key strategies: manage water pressure (install a regulator if over 80 PSI, ideal range is 40–70 PSI), address hard water with a water softener, avoid chemical drain cleaners (use enzyme-based cleaners instead), upgrade outdated materials like galvanized steel or polybutylene pipes, insulate pipes properly, install water hammer arrestors, schedule professional maintenance every 1–2 years, know your shut-off valve location, and choose quality fixtures with brass or ceramic components.

Monthly: check for leaks under sinks and around toilets, test drains for slow drainage, inspect exposed pipes, check water pressure, run water through rarely used fixtures. Quarterly: clean showerheads and aerators, check toilet flappers and fill valves, inspect washing machine hoses, flush drains with baking soda and vinegar. Annually: flush your water heater, test the pressure relief valve, inspect main sewer line, test water pressure with a gauge (should be 40–80 PSI), and inspect caulking around tubs, showers, and sinks.

We recommend comprehensive plumbing inspections at least every two years. More frequent inspections are needed for older homes (25+ years — annually), homes with mature trees near sewer lines (annual sewer inspection), homes with a history of plumbing issues, before purchasing a home, and after major renovations near water or sewer lines. A professional inspection covers water pressure, visible pipes, drains and fixtures, water heater condition, toilet mechanics, and sump pump operation.

Tankless water heaters cost 2–3 times more upfront but offer energy savings of 24–34% for homes using 41 gallons or less daily, a longer lifespan (20+ years vs. 10–15 for tanks), endless hot water, space savings, reduced water damage risk, and potential tax credits. The financial break-even point typically occurs in 7–15 years. Families that use significant hot water or plan to stay in their home long-term see the best return. Our plumbers can provide a detailed cost analysis specific to your household.

We recommend annual flushing to remove sediment buildup. Flush more frequently (every 6 months) if you have hard water, a smaller tank with high usage, or an older unit. Signs your water heater needs immediate flushing include rumbling/popping sounds, decreasing hot water capacity, or visible sediment in hot water. Professional flushing also provides an opportunity to inspect the anode rod, pressure relief valve, and other critical components.

Consider these factors: Age — if your tank heater is 8–12 years old or tankless unit is 15–20+ years old, replacement is often more cost-effective. Repair costs — if exceeding 50% of a new unit's cost, replace. Frequency of repairs — repeated issues favor replacement. Efficiency — newer models significantly reduce utility bills. Performance — if it's not meeting your hot water needs, upgrading may be necessary. Our plumbers can assess your unit and help you make an informed decision.

Advantages: endless hot water, 24–34% energy savings, 20+ year lifespan, space savings, and reduced water damage risk. Considerations: higher upfront cost, may require electrical or gas line upgrades, multiple units may be needed for larger homes with simultaneous demand, and annual descaling maintenance is required. We can assess your household's usage patterns, existing plumbing, and budget to determine if tankless is right for you.

Potential causes include sediment buildup reducing tank capacity (regular flushing can solve this), an undersized water heater for your household's demands, a faulty dip tube that allows cold water to mix with hot, thermostat issues limiting production, or simultaneous hot water usage depleting supply quickly. Our plumbers can diagnose the specific issue and recommend solutions, from simple repairs to upgrading to a larger tank or tankless system for endless hot water.

The location of the leak indicates the source: leaking from the top typically means inlet/outlet connection issues, temperature/pressure relief valve problems, or anode rod port issues (usually repairable). Leaking from the bottom could be condensation, a leaking drain valve, or a corroded tank (tank corrosion usually requires replacement). Other causes include excessive pressure, sediment buildup causing deterioration, or a cracked glass lining. Address leaks quickly — even small ones can cause significant damage.